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March 30, 2007
mental floss
we got south swells and north swells happening all weekend. yeeeaaaaahaaaaaaaaa!!
surfed this morning consistent chest high sheet glass waves in a calm kona wind setting.
unreal colors of teal blue with clean visions of the reef. even hit it again at lunch today over at "flies" with odd setups but still chest high.
saturday looks like a day of getting out and lost...
breakfast: dawn patrol session at diamond head w/ soulsista
lunch: a long hike around koko head craterw/ soulsista
dinner: we're heading to north shore for a sunset session (suppose to be solid 2-4!)
sunday is a dawnpatrol, bbq'ing and sunset session.
i'll be lukcy if i can even sleep tonight i'm so stoked.
fuck work its friday..
sf~
Posted by Single Fin at 11:20 PM | Comments (0)
March 21, 2007
tick tock says the clock
shhhhhhh_t time is flying by the last week or so. been stale on the blog like a bad geek. needless to say we've still been hitting the surf. just been lame about getting online & geeking out.
last night we hit cliffs for a nice session. classic diamond head with humps & bumps. most of it about chest high + on occassion. fun drops with lots of chunky walls to get on. even had a nice bitch slap last night to add flavor to the surf. it all started when i dropped in on a nice choice wave of a set. about head high with a good looking wall. swung in on the fish with a nice bottom turn heading for the lip. glided along the wall and then all of the sudden it was like a slap to the face. the lip popped up hit me sqaure in the melon and literally knocked me clean off my feet as the board kept sailing along the face.
got tossed in the pit and then rolled down onto the reef.
i bet it looked super funny from a outsiders view point.
the night before we hit cliffs again. classic,nasty, fun, wedgey, sun, rain, pelting rain, heavy winds, hump, bump, chop and rainbows.
all about change i suppose.
Posted by Single Fin at 01:07 PM | Comments (0)
March 11, 2007
dialed in
nice day out today in hawaii. lots of waves on the south shore about waist to head high. we hit cliffs about 8am for a nice sunday morning session. a little choppy at times but as anyone who has ever surfed diamond head knows....you get what you get & you make the most of it. which by the way i can honestly say that surfing cliffs year round has completely evolved our surfing. we've learned to use the chops as a vert ramp at times. today for example, i think i cleared a nice ollie on the long board about 2ft in the air, stuck the landing & did a nice tail step to shoot off the back. later in the session i nailed a nice floater over some short boarder who was duck diving underneath. twas a fun little way to show some improv style.
oh yeah, a nice little thing to mention that i forgot to yesterday. soulsista had a sweet wave yesterday on a nice outside set over at browns. a nice 8ft+ face at the peak with a sheet glass teal blue wall all the way into the channel. she took off at the peak after some other guy chicked out. was a sweet drop with buried rails all the way to a nice right hand wall. then again today she hammered a nice over head backside drop with a pig dog rail grab. SWEETNESS!
all while not loosing her bikini.
Posted by Single Fin at 08:23 PM | Comments (0)
March 10, 2007
browns & mansions
head high swell on the south shore today. nice to drive up and see absolutely clean glass sets rolling in. tide looked a little chunky as it was going from high to low. decided that it was better to ditch cliffs & stroke down to mansions or even inside of browns. browns happend to be perfectly dumping into a nice section that people cannont see unless from a very particular part of the road. there was about 80 people at cliffs & a few hundred yards away we had 6 in all. which i was so happy about you can even imagine. for those that don't surf....its like riding a skate board thru a mall and not hittin people with a meat clever strappped to the bottom of a surf board.
soulsista & i surfed for 3 hours until we literally could not catch another wave. i coul feel my skin baking and my hands shriveling up like raisens. leaving was painful at that due to the fact it was head high & sheet glass with long right hand walls.
its march, its clean and glassy at high, the weather is hot and the sun is bright during whale watching season.
alohas.
Posted by Single Fin at 10:25 PM | Comments (213)
Problem Solving
"the way to remove darkness from a room is simply to turn on a light. in the same way, to rid yourself of any difficulty, concentrate on the solution rather on the problem."
what a perfect quote for the day?! okay, here's what i've decided to do...start with one day at a time, focus your meditation on loving kindness & forgiveness through letting go, first thing in the morning & right before bed. stop yourself when you find yourself judging or practicing some sort of "violence" on yourself or others, take a deep breath in, acknowledge what is being done, then transform that though with your breath out into "loving kindness".
his holiness, the dalai lama is coming to maui next month. we'll be going over to listen to him speak. tickets are sold out. i'm really looking forward to seeing him. he's always been an inspiration and personal mentor to me. there's something about this meditation thing that just keeps on coming back to the path to our inner peace....thus contributing to world peace.
peace, love & namaste to you all!
Posted by soul sista' at 10:16 AM | Comments (0)
March 09, 2007
Meditation
"So here's a story for you. Here I am a Vipassana teacher with hundreds and hundreds of students, some who have experienced powerful meditative awakenings, but that's not my way. For a long time this was the hardest thing to accept that nothing happens. I am not a person with big dramatic experiences. For thirty years it has simply been a process of practicing, by not being caught by my ideas or discouragement or success. I would go for months of retreats and nothing spectacular would happen. This was pretty hard for the first ten years. (laughter) But at least I did not get caught into believing that I am some special person. Yes somehow something did change. What most transformed me were the endless hours of mindfulness. Giving a caring attention to what I was doing. I learned that the inner droppings of burdens would not happen all at once, but again and again. I dropped the judgments the fears, the distrust the tightness in my body. I discovered automatically how tightness could come and with that realization I starting letting go and my life began one of ease. The teachings became clear, that in reality there is neither coming nor going, but from the ground of being, nothing ever really happens or will happen. Seeing this was like a confirmation. I became less serious less concerned with myself, my kindness started to deepen. My friends told me I became more and more like myself, how odd. They say there has been a very big change in me, but it wasn't produced by any special event. I guess it is just the fruit of being present for this moment over and over, it’s that simple. So many ways, and each of these is a shift of identities. A freeing of the heart, an invitation to the joy of liberation. When you come in to interviews to speak with us in the course of the retreat, we see this in you. It's really a beautiful thing. You come and how hard it is. You struggle with grief, with loneliness, with the small sense of self and pain, with anxiety and then we begin to notice you have moments and periods where you're more spacious. Where the judgment with the way things are drops away. Where the resistance melts. Where there is a touching in for each of you to a deeper and greater reality and it's a most beautiful thing to see. You start to shine more, you get younger as the retreat goes on.. (laughter). ......This is your treasure. This is not a small thing. To know that it's possible in a moment to be free. Caught in all this stuff and in the next moment to know, wow I was really caught in that one wasn't I. Just in a moment, any moment, to step out of all the things that we take as I and mine in the world . It is a treasure to come back to the unconditioned from all the changing conditions. So when we were asked is enlightenment a myth....... How would you answer this, what would you say, what level would you speak from................."
~Jack Kornfield
Posted by soul sista' at 06:15 PM | Comments (0)
March 05, 2007
sunday sessions
twas nice to start the day off slow. i rarely get a sunday that just allows me not to work & just cruz. so that being said, soulsista & i decided that it might be a good score to head up to north shore & catch the afternoon tide shift. not to mention that after looking at the buoys i had a hunch that a nice late afternoon w/ nw swell would be coming in.
such a nice day out w/ the skies clear, sun was blaring, breeze gently rustling the palms trees, a few whales flipping their tails out deep & the jawaiian was cranking out of the stero. moments i truly will remember thats for sure.
anyhow, we pulled into "chuns" we could see some nice sets coming in across the bay. lots of people just tooling around on the beach, laying out, bbq'ing etc.
surfed the 8'8" for the first hour & a half. then came in & switched it up for the 7' quad. the first part of the session was sweet. lots of big waves with nice long walls. seemed like the swell was wrapping in the perfect direction all afternoon. was a little hard to make certain sections but well worth the struggle. many of the sets were about head high or 2ft overhead on the average. every 40 minutes there would be a couple back too back sets of 3 waves about 4ft overhead & even double overhead.
soulsista was having fun just playing dodge ball with the big monsters. often i'd be in the pit dealing with the end results of a double overhead cranking in. damn white wash was insane making duck diving a game of bobbing up & down. it was fun to watch soulsista scamble over the lip barely making it & avoiding the 10 ft+ drop over the falls. she was soooooo lucky a couple times that i thought for sure she was going to get owned. me on the other hand, got my ass kicked as i took a few 10-12ft'rs right on the head. once getting pinned down on the reef while the white wash just rag doll'd me.
finally headed home sun burnt & sleepy.
its days like this that i truly love being on the island.
Posted by Single Fin at 10:46 AM | Comments (0)