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March 05, 2007
sunday sessions
twas nice to start the day off slow. i rarely get a sunday that just allows me not to work & just cruz. so that being said, soulsista & i decided that it might be a good score to head up to north shore & catch the afternoon tide shift. not to mention that after looking at the buoys i had a hunch that a nice late afternoon w/ nw swell would be coming in.
such a nice day out w/ the skies clear, sun was blaring, breeze gently rustling the palms trees, a few whales flipping their tails out deep & the jawaiian was cranking out of the stero. moments i truly will remember thats for sure.
anyhow, we pulled into "chuns" we could see some nice sets coming in across the bay. lots of people just tooling around on the beach, laying out, bbq'ing etc.
surfed the 8'8" for the first hour & a half. then came in & switched it up for the 7' quad. the first part of the session was sweet. lots of big waves with nice long walls. seemed like the swell was wrapping in the perfect direction all afternoon. was a little hard to make certain sections but well worth the struggle. many of the sets were about head high or 2ft overhead on the average. every 40 minutes there would be a couple back too back sets of 3 waves about 4ft overhead & even double overhead.
soulsista was having fun just playing dodge ball with the big monsters. often i'd be in the pit dealing with the end results of a double overhead cranking in. damn white wash was insane making duck diving a game of bobbing up & down. it was fun to watch soulsista scamble over the lip barely making it & avoiding the 10 ft+ drop over the falls. she was soooooo lucky a couple times that i thought for sure she was going to get owned. me on the other hand, got my ass kicked as i took a few 10-12ft'rs right on the head. once getting pinned down on the reef while the white wash just rag doll'd me.
finally headed home sun burnt & sleepy.
its days like this that i truly love being on the island.
Posted by Single Fin at March 5, 2007 10:46 AM