« dialed in | Main | mental floss »
March 21, 2007
tick tock says the clock
shhhhhhh_t time is flying by the last week or so. been stale on the blog like a bad geek. needless to say we've still been hitting the surf. just been lame about getting online & geeking out.
last night we hit cliffs for a nice session. classic diamond head with humps & bumps. most of it about chest high + on occassion. fun drops with lots of chunky walls to get on. even had a nice bitch slap last night to add flavor to the surf. it all started when i dropped in on a nice choice wave of a set. about head high with a good looking wall. swung in on the fish with a nice bottom turn heading for the lip. glided along the wall and then all of the sudden it was like a slap to the face. the lip popped up hit me sqaure in the melon and literally knocked me clean off my feet as the board kept sailing along the face.
got tossed in the pit and then rolled down onto the reef.
i bet it looked super funny from a outsiders view point.
the night before we hit cliffs again. classic,nasty, fun, wedgey, sun, rain, pelting rain, heavy winds, hump, bump, chop and rainbows.
all about change i suppose.
Posted by Single Fin at March 21, 2007 01:07 PM