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June 03, 2007

sunset

it's sunday and i have the whole day off!! space & room to breathe, to do as i feel inspired to do...the possibilities are endless.

yesterday afternoon, i headed to the north shore. the north shore of oahu is so very different from the south shore. the ocean there is wild, fast, full of power & extremely unpredictable at times. it's much more country than living here in the heart of honolulu. world famous surfers make the north shore their home, so they can surf breaks like, "pipeline", "backdoor", "waimea bay", "sunset"...just to name a few of them.

famous people frequent this area all the time. you could be sitting at a restaurant right next to the "lost" crew, run into edward norton & woodie harrelson at the local thai restaurant, do yoga with minnie driver, workout with cameron diaz...and not to mention all the big time surfers, kelly slater, laird hamilton, andy irons, just see them out and about.

and in the end, we're all the same when it comes to being in the ocean. i got to surf "sunset" at sunset time. that place is a crazy break, to say the least. but my friends tell me that it is an epic wave. so this is what i've learned about that break so far. you have to be on! you have to always watch how the motion of the ocean. a friend of mine described "sunset" as a woman. "she can treat you really nice, but when she is angry, she can really f____ you up :)"

i caught the biggest wave in my surfing career yesterday. it felt like the whole entire ocean floor was swelling up from beneath me as i was taking off...all i could think was "oh s___, here i go!!" my heart was beating a hundred miles per hour it seemed like, yet i felt so at peace. all i can remember was that i was at the top of the peak and i had a long, long, long way to go down. i hugged close to the wall, which felt like i was next to a mini sky scraper. the top of it was towering way over my head. there was a dark shadow that loomed over me. and then i came out the other side!!! and to top it all off, i had a witness :) i'm not sure how big it was. i'm horrible with gauging how high it is. i guess that's why i get away with dropping down some big waves at times. alas, ignorance is bliss at times.

and then the next few sets were white washes from the land of the giants. so big where you definitely had to throw your board and just let the water take you wherever it wanted to. total surrender and reverence for the ocean. she's the boss. we are just guests who have the honor to try to connect with her.

Posted by soul sista' at June 3, 2007 12:13 PM

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