« The Invitation | Main | sharing »
November 05, 2007
humbled
spending a little time in the north shore with my computer, as well as the surf. a good day today, surf in the north shore and the south shore.
i've been playing in the country a little more, just to get a different feel of the island. surfing lots of random different breaks and meeting lots of old living legend surfers. it's a whole different world. i surfed holten's, and a couple of breaks out in mokuleia, the northern most end of the north shore. i did a morning session at this break called "sunset". have been feeling melancholy this past week-end. the weather doesn't seem to help either. it's been gray and rainy. i can't believe i survived seattle for as long as we did :)
anyway, good size waves...feeling a bit more confident surfing bigger waves. and then i decided to catch a wave that i wasn't supposed to. i got a chance to be up close and personal with "boneyards". extremely reefy...the white wash decided to drag me up into the reef chest first. blood everywhere. i look like i got into a really bad cat fight, a cat with a 100 claws. lesson learned. and then to top it all off, i caught a 10 foot wave after it. funny how life works.
surfing has been a nice escape for me here. it has made me face some of my deepest fears. it has made me strong. and yet it has allowed me to surrender and to be humbled on so many levels...
"thank you, single fin for all that you are, all that you have given me, all that you have inspired in me, and all the strength & confidence you have instilled within me."
much love & alohas...
Posted by soul sista' at November 5, 2007 02:14 PM